We had escaped it up until this point.

You know, the bureaucracy of getting important things done in Argentina.

We had avoided the long lines going out of the bank. We didn’t have to wait 2 years for paperwork and bank stuff like our friends did in Salta. We had emerged scott free.

Or so we thought. Until our ATM card was cancelled on us randomly upon arriving in Buenos Aires and we had $20 to survive on.

After the horror of dealing with Wells Fargo the previous 2 months (they told us it was and wasn’t going to be cancelled 6 different occasions), they finally pissed us off to a point of no return (lets just say we are scouting out credit unions).

“Oh, so you’re in Buenos Aires with no money? Sorry, we already shipped your card to your home in Austin. Have someone there overnight it to you. Not our problem. Peace.” was the gist of the conversation.

No sir. Unacceptable.

So after Shaun called back a few times they took pity upon us an expedited a card our way. That is, after arguing with them over the fact they they should expedite us a card even if they can’t guarantee it being there within 3 days. We’re not waiting the 7-10 when we have no money to eat in an ungodly expensive city. Should be cake at that point right?

Our landlord said that once we get confirmation that our card has been delivered we should be able to go downstairs and talk to the concierge lady to grab it from her.

So the day finally arrived and I giddily went downstairs in my pajamas to collect our card.

This is how I felt knowing the card was here!

Or so I thought.

[In Spanish]:

Me: Hi, so I’m here to pick up a box from FedEx that was delivered yesterday?
Her: A box?
Me: Yes, a box from FedEx.
Her: A box?
Me: Yes, we were expecting a box or something from FedEx that was delivered yesterday.
Her: (furrowed eyebrows) A box? We got an envelope.
Me: Okay, then it was an envelope.
Her: Oh, the envelope.
Me: Yes, the envelope?
Her: Well, you didn’t tell me you were expecting any mail so I sent it upstairs.
Me: WHAT?
Her: I gave it to the office on the third floor.
Me: But our address was on it.
Her: Well, you didn’t tell me you were expecting mail.

I sat there flabbergasted.

Her: You can check to see if they still have it.

I held back tears. This whole ordeal had been stupid. Just plain stupid.

I head upstairs to this “office” and they buzzed me in.

Oh great, a lawyers office. And there is no receptionist. And every lawyer has a client. And I’m sitting here in pajamas.

The only thing going through my head at that point was thinking, “Well, I’m glad I put a bra on before heading downstairs.”

After sitting in the waiting room with a weepy woman and an impatient man, a door opened up and a client left.

If I have learned anything from Latin America it is that I must be aggressive if I want to get anything accomplished.

I barged into the lawyers office.

[In Spanish]:

Me: Hi, the lady downstairs sent me up here to get an envelope she sent up here because she didn’t know what to do with it.
Lawyer: An envelope?
Me: YES. AN ENVELOPE. From FedEx.
Lawyer: (thinking) Ah yes, the one with the credit card in it?

My heart skipped a beat. Good job Argentina for opening my very important confidential mail.

Me: Yes. The credit card.
Lawyer: What is the name on it?
Me: Shaun Kuschel
Lawyer: And who is that?
Me: My husband. He is upstairs.
Lawyer: I’m going to need to see your documents.
Me: …..

Seriously?! You open my mail, I tell you what is on the card and you STILL won’t give it to me? I head out the door to grab Shaun and our passports.

Lawyer: (as I leave) I did already spent all your money on the card! I had a great shopping spree!

HAR HAR. Really f*ing funny.

I drag Shaun downstairs and force him to put on shoes and a shirt. We toss our passports at him.

Instead of handing us the card, he thumbs his way through the passport, reading the name, looking at Shaun, perusing the stamps.

THIS IS RIDICULOUS.

Then he slowly hands us the card and tells us to have a good day in English.

This is how things are done in Argentina. I kid you not. Ask anyone around. Pick ONE errand you want to get done that day because people are going to make sure that you don’t get more accomplished. I nearly lost it and I’ve been traveling through Latin America for a year.

And people wonder why I wasn’t a fan of Buenos Aires.

Oh yeah, that is sooooooo Argentina. is a post from: Over Yonderlust

There are times in a backpacker’s life where you just have to splurge on something fancy – something that makes you feel like you are cultured – or an adult (not mutually exclusive).

Wine tasting did that for me. Seriously.

How can I NOT feel like a classy lady while holding onto a good glass of red wine in a wine connoisseur’s cellar?

But there we were, in 0800 Vino, being taught the magical ways of deciphering tastes of wine by the knowledgeable and very personable Nigel Tollerman. Not only did he leave his home to pursue a passion of his, but he is damn successful at it. We were lucky enough to be invited on a heavy pour night (what can I say, I was excited when I heard that) of Cabernet Sauvignons and a Cabernet Franc (which I had never even heard of).

This is Nigel. He is a badass.

The process goes something like this (and I’m paraphrasing like a mofo):

Let it breathe. Luckily Nigel got on this the moment he came down to the cellar – even before the tasting really began.

Does it look a pretty color? The more transparent, the younger the wine.

Smell it. What flavors do you smell? As we are new at this, all I could smell was wine. And alcohol. Yeah… it is going to take a while before I’m going to be able to decipher. Oh well, more wine for me?

Swish it in your mouth to taste the flavors. I did a one swish, knock it back. Yes, a waste – but I know it will take a while before I can taste everything and I didn’t want it to get all saliva-y sitting on my tongue while I magically wait for something to happen. The one thing I could tell right away was the different dryness-es of the wines.

We tried the following:

Del Fin del Mundo – Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon – a favorite of the crowd even though it was a lower quality wine – Smoky, Vanilla, Coconut

Punto Final – Mendoza, Argentina – Cabernet Sauvignon – Peppery, sweet, juicy

La Madrid Reserve – Cabernet Franc – Anis, dark, viscous – I wasn’t a fan. Neither was Shaun. I think this was the only one we threw the rest into the bucket.

Huarpe Taymente – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scored 90 Nigel Tolerman points (which, from what I understand, was his highest ranked wine). Yes ladies and gents, he has his own scoring system. I wish I could see the excel file for that one!

Tapiz – Cabernet Sauvignon – I think at this point I had had a little too much wine and my notes got really sparse.

Palo Alto – Limited Production – Cabernet Sauvignon – I wish I wrote more about it. I think I was a fan, but not my favorite.

There is one major suggestion for people going to a wine tasting for the first time (in Argentina). While the rest of the world swishes and spits, these people like to down the wine. That being said, make sure to eat something before you head in. As I didn’t think that entirely through, I was a little wobbly walking out of the place.

The beautiful and witty @thetravelchica. (Thanks for the heads up on the wine tasting!)

But I mean, that means it was a good night right?

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Disclosure: This was NOT a comped experience. I genuinely appreciated the knowledge and respect that 0800 Vinos extended to us newbies and we had an excellent time… dare I say probably my most favorite experience in Buenos Aires?

Feelin’ Fancy at a Wine Tasting in Buenos Aires is a post from: Over Yonderlust

“What the hell is the big deal with the Falkland Islands?”

“Don’t call them that.” our friends in Salta said in unison.

Apparently it is quite the sore issue. We were encroaching on Dia de las Malvinas and like my ignorance of Lima, Peru, I had to find out what was going on.

"To the heroes of the Malvinas: Movement for a national identity"

Las Malvinas/The Falkland Islands have been under the United Kingdom rule since they reestablished their reign in 1833. Over the next 150 years, the United Kingdom did try to make diplomatic negotiations with Argentina but, for various reasons, they all fell through. In 1982, Argentina decided to take them back.

Now, here is where it gets interesting. Many people say they attacked to divert the attention away from the miserable economy at the time. From what I understand, it was a failboat mission to begin with. Not only did they only send a few hundred Argentine soldiers out there to take an island from the UK (umm… wow), but didn’t bother to really send reinforcements or many supplies during their winter months.

WHY are these pictures in black and white? These were taken in 1982, not 1942. Oh yeah, they give them a sense of authority/realism when in B/W.

Needless to say the UK won in that situation and never bothered to really offer the islands back to Argentina. That, and well, people have been there so long under UK rule that they consider themselves British citizens and don’t want to be part of Argentina.

Caption: 10:46 on that April 2nd. The soldier leads one of the many patrols. At the back, Saint Mary's Catholic Church. At the front, a British car, with the driving wheel to the right, parked on the left, ready to drive that direction.

Argentina still holds that they have every right to Las Malvinas/The Falkland Islands and the current President Kirchner, vows to make it her topmost priority. Never mind the failing economy again (can we say another diversion?), but the islands must be theirs!

As of the most recent Americas Summit, Kirchner walked out as no one would take her claim on the islands seriously.

The San Martin Park in Buenos Aires has a monument for the fallen soldiers (and their fallen lands) that is guarded by servicemen at all times along with a photographic “representation” put up during the observance time of the Las Malvinas war. My mouth was frothing at how amazingly the propaganda was digested so easily (and I do realize that BOTH sides have propaganda, it is just that this side was more readily available). As a media studies major, I could see right through it. Make sure to check out the captions on the pictures. There really are some interesting ones.

The thing I find interesting about this is that they place the American flag for "English" rather than the internationally used British flag.

The images of family are used to bring these images closer to home, to make the war more personal.

Caption: This could have been anywhere in the country. At the bus terminal in the city of Junin, a mother and her daughter bid farewell to a loved one. They sense that he is going into the unknown.

I felt really horrible because I guffawed out loud with these. Super over the top with the captions:

Caption: An image that was hard on British pride.

Caption: ... Hands up, they march with indignation and rage.

Traveling History Lesson: Las Malvinas is a post from: Over Yonderlust

So, instead, you get this awesome performance by a street artist/puppeteer that was performing in San Telmo, Buenos Aires. If you like seeing things like this, give us some feedback so we can keep providing small details of life like these (and the previous tango video).

Video: Puppeteer Performance in San Telmo, Buenos Aires is a post from: Over Yonderlust

Cemeteries. [insert eerie music]

Spooky, right?

The why the hell do I find myself visiting them every chance that I get? We have a collection of photos guest posted by Eric and Shauna during their visit to the Necropolis in Havana, Cuba, and a few from the cemetery in Xela, Guatemala.

What once freaked me out as a kid is now absolutely fascinating. No lingering spooky ghostly feelings – just silence… and art. This unlikely spot has some of the most beautiful art pieces I’ve seen in my live. It is quite the way to go out – seriously. Sometime dies and then this massive, narcissistic monument goes up designed by sculptors, artists, and architects.

While I personally may not be a stout, religious person, doesn’t mean I can’t enjoy the delicate and detailed stained glass that I found made this graveyard much different than the rest. Not only where there mainly crypts with the coffins in sight, but the stained glass made every tomb look like a small cathedral.

Sure, you can go and see Evita’s grave in the Duarte tomb, but there is so much more to this spot than that. Wander around. You will be surprised at what small details you will come across.

Cemetery Tourism: La Recoleta, Buenos Aires is a post from: Over Yonderlust

Our view.

Part of what made our Buenos Aires experience bearable was the fact that we had a badass-ly placed apartment in the center of Buenos Aires brought to us by the amazing guys over at 9flats.

Seriously, we had access to EVERYTHING. Not only did all the buses stop nearby but we had several Subte (subway) stops 2-5 blocks away that could take us all over the city.

The table was in the room but we made it work.

Our apartment was located a block north of the LaValle/La Florida shopping district. If we ever needed food in the middle of the night, there was no lack of it for sure. And if we felt like getting away from it all by heading over to the beautiful Puerto Madero, we were a 10 minute walk away.

Puerto Madero

One of my first impressions of Buenos Aires was how very European it was. The apartments are no different (and not in a bad way). They are just very… snug. And from the people I invited over to check it out, we apparently hit the jackpot in size for the budget traveler.

The big thing we were looking for in finding an apartment was the fact that it was not only close to attractions and things to do, but we needed to have 2 separate rooms (or sleeping areas) for our friend that was visiting us from the United States. This gem even came with his own room.

The only thing that I was surprised to see was the office-style glass walls that separated the house. To be honest, they were actually more sound-proof than some drywall I’ve experienced in hostels over the years. However, you can’t drown out the guy in the next building blasting Red Hot Chili Peppers during the day. I found myself humming tunes while cooking. Not cool.

It came with everything we needed: wifi, a sweet landlord, a kitchen, a hot shower, and AIR CONDITIONING. Do you know how long it had been since we had a/c? A long freaking time. And it worked like a charm.

The source of many amazing hot showers.

If you have an extra room and would like to make some extra cash, you can register it and be a host. If we weren’t so nomadic and had a place, I would totally consider this (in between people Couchsurfing and the like!) as an awesome way to not only meet new people, but bring in a bit of money to add to YOUR travel fun.

And you get to use an elevator with those crazy metal door thingies!

And if you’re curious about how 9flats works:

Thank you to 9flats for helping us end our big trip with a bang. You definitely made our experience there one of our favorites!

Rockin’ It with 9Flats in Buenos Aires is a post from: Over Yonderlust

Creative Commons via Alexander Wipf

If I could pass on one piece of advice – that was given to me – for people going to Buenos Aires, it would be to check out the Mapa Interactivo.

Do you need to get from one side of the city to another and are not familiar with every Subte (subway) map and bus in a city of 19 million people? Oh wait, there is no online record of where exactly buses go?! (Keep in mind that if you need to go to a location outside the Capital Federal, this isn’t going to help you much.)

This website makes life a cinch. Seriously, I’m starting to think that all cities are behind the curve now.

Don’t speak Spanish? No worries, I’ll break it down for you.

So this is your starting page and to the right, you have the Capital Federal area. Don’t let it fool you. It is MASSIVE.

Click on “Como Llego” or, “How the hell do I get from point A to point B?”

In the “Desde” (or “From”) field, type in your current address and in the “Hasta” (or “To”) field, type in the address of where you want to go (assuming you know how to use the Googles and/or are using a guide book, you know how to get the addy of where you are heading. It also accepts cross streets.).

In this case, we lived on Tucuman 340 and for shits and giggles, I’m going to show you how to get to La Cabrera – which happens to be on Cabrera 5127. Click on the search icon on the right side.

On the left side of the screen you are going to see something that looks like this:

What it basically is telling us is that we have 10 ways to get there ranging from 31-47 minutes. Click on the pin icon for whatever mode of transportation you would like to check out. Just because I love taking more than one mode of transportation virtually, I’m going to click the second selection that tells me that I have to take the Subte and a bus to get where we need to go.

After you click the icon, the map on the right will pop up with a visual representation on a map of the written directions.

It has every minute detailed, even the amount of time it should take you to get to the bus. Keep in mind that most buses are on their own agenda and come when they damn well please so the time may be off a bit.

And that is it! You now have access to getting around Buenos Aires with ease! AND buses run 24 hours!

Simple right? But now – good luck *snicker* getting change to take the buses. Coins only! And they don’t give change! If you do plan on being there for a while, stop by a post office (just expect to be in line for a while) to get a rechargeable card. It will save you a headache for sure.

Best of luck to all you explorers taking on the city of good air!

Buenos Aires MUST HAVE: Mapa Interactivo is a post from: Over Yonderlust

Mike's amazing asado on the grill!

Aren't we just too damn cute? --- Getting ready for the asado at Mike and Steph's.

I’m from Texas – born n’ raised! Hell, I have a massive chest tattoo of the Lone Star, horseshoes, guns, smoke, and our state flower, the yellow rose.

If I know anything, it is beef. Yes, we live in Austin, home of the most vegetarians per capita in our grand ol’ state but it is just not something I can commit to – I NEED MEAT.

So let’s just say I was a bit skeptical when I arrived in Argentina. People raved around the world at how good the beef was.

And even though we were basically veggies due to our meager $50/day budget ($26 of which went to our rent), we did manage to save enough to splurge a bit while in Buenos Aires. We needed to see for ourselves.

So introducing our contenders:

The #TeamBA Blogger Asado

Hosted by the awesome Mike of the Art of Backpacking, this Argentine-American wanted to show off his asado skills and invited us over along with a few other bloggers to see what everything was about.

Served: Vacio (healthy cut of meat from the chest of the cow), Morcilla (blood sausage), Chorizo (sausage), and Ribs.

P.S. 3 bottles of wine is not enough for 6 bloggers.

And this is what was left AFTER people served themselves.

Cost: Well, for us, a bottle of wine and a massive bowl of mac and cheese that I rocked (ask Stephanie, she called it for her and Mike to share after we left).

I was in such a meat frenzy I apparently forgot to get pictures of everyone.. so umm.. this is Steph (@20stravel), Dave (@rtwdave), Mike is hiding in the back somewhere (@artofbackpackin), and other Stephanie is also.. somewhere(@thetravelchica).

Verdict: Mike is a damn fine griller. It is a shame he isn’t from Texas. He would make people proud. Charred yumminess on the outside, pink and warm on the inside – GREAT COMBO.

La Cabrera

This little gem is freaking amazing. Check with them to find out when their 50% off 7-8pm slot is since it appears as though they do change their schedule to throw people off a bit. We went on a Monday and they had moved it to Tues-Thurs. Get there early! Like, 45 minutes early (and I DON’T mean Latin American TimE) and wait outside as the line can get a bit obscene very quickly.

We're so hungry, it is really hard to look excited. Shaun and our friend Kevin (who came to visit from the States!) await the steak.

This is my starved and excited face though. ^^^

Served: Ojo de Bife (Rib Eye), Bife de Chorizo (both ordered RARE), bottle of Cafayate (GOOD!) – keep in mind that the chef suggests you share cuts of meat as they are massive. We were rockin’ 4 pounds (2 kilos) of meat between 3 people.

This wine rocked our face!

Cost: On 50% night the total cost of the bill came out to about $60USD for everything.

Ojo de Bife (R), Bife de Chorizo (L), and fixins - artichoke, mushrooms, quail eggs, mashed potatoes, creamed corn, squash, applesauce

Verdict: The service is amazing and they fill your wine glass for you (which made me feel fancy!). The ojo de bife won the best meat for the night hands down. Again, charred and flavorful on the outside, perfectly cooked on the inside and tender as all hell. The bife de chorizo, which normally is one of the best cuts, was sadly not up to par (maybe it was just a bad night for the cook?). Super chewy, and 25% fat (the Argentines LOVE their steak fat), it was unflavorful and disappointing. The sides made eating it much more bearable.

Siga La Vaca

While not the most upscale restaurant around, this all you can eat meat buffet is totally worth your time. Lets just say that you get an entire bottle of wine to yourself to help wash down this gluttonous event.

P.S. 6 bottles of wine is enough for 6 people.

Served: Morcilla, Chorizo, Vacio, Short Ribs, Bife de Chorizo, Chinchulines (intestine), a helping (or 2 – so kill me, I hadn’t seen a salad bar this stacked in MONTHS) of the salad bar, a bottle of wine per person (6 bottles), and french fries for the table.

Picture by my friend Kevin Langendoen (the guy in the La Cabrera), Steph helps herself to the buffet!

Cost: ~$30USD per person for all the meat you can stuff into your face in one sitting

Verdict: Everything was a wee bit overcooked but still delicious. Although, I think the bife de chorizo that Shaun and my friend Kevin got was so overcooked you could have thrown it and broken a window. The ribs were by far my favorite… and the chinchulines? Yeah, I’m still not a fan. There is just something about that pate-y paste in the middle that makes me gag. At least I tried. Two times.

Happy Steph and Mike...

Happy Dave!

Poor Shaun loved his wine so much that he drank his entire bottle before he even really ate anything (and he isn’t much of a drinker).

Here are some of his pictures while he was wandering outside woozy (and we couldn’t find him):

So overall verdict?

The quality of the meat is exactly the same. Nothing new there. Although, they have their cooking techniques down to a tee. While Texans have some mean BBQ down – dare I say it? – I think the Argentines may have us on how to grill a steak. Salt, perfect temperature – there is nothing else like it in the world.

Texas vs. Argentina: THE BEEF OFF is a post from: Over Yonderlust

If you checked out our Monday’s photo essay on San Telmo, then you already know that this is the place to go for your free Sunday tango performance.

I did get a chance to record a fair bit of it and I can’t help but watch in awe. Their fancy footwork puts me to shame (not that I ever claimed to be a good dancer – you should see how klutzy I am).

Enjoy! It is definitely worth the watch.

Video: Tango in San Telmo is a post from: Over Yonderlust

Make sure to check in the middle of the main park square in the late afternoon for a free tango performance. If you’re on a budget, it is definitely a good way to check that off your Argentine bucket list.

Photo Essay: San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina is a post from: Over Yonderlust