Just saying the word, “Hawaii,” instantly conjures up images of pristine beaches, unspoiled green mountains and lush forest, all kissed with floral scented breezes. But what are the flavors of Hawaii like? I’ve long associated Hawaii with macadamia nuts, Kona coffee, fresh seafood and exotic fruits, but I’ve only recently realized just how diverse the cuisine of the Aloha State is.
Nearly 20 years ago, a group of 12 local chefs founded the Hawaii regional cuisine movement, which aimed at getting the state’s producers to grow what local chefs needed. The literal fruits of their labor are evident all over Hawaii, showing up in everything from local cafes to my favorite spots like room service at the Maui Beach Hotel and dozens of other Honolulu hotels and restaurants. Today, crops are more diverse all over the state, but none more so than on the Big Island, as farmers are rediscovering heirloom breeds and expanding to grow even more varieties.
Coffee Break
Hilo is essentially ground zero for an agriventure, starting with the Hilo Coffee Mill, situated on 24 acres in Mountain View. Coffee production in the tropical forests on the island’s east side once boasted more coffee production within the 20 miles from Hilo to Volcano than the entire state of Hawaii does today. Majorly scaling things down and tailoring it to the small-batch trends of today, the Hilo Coffee Mill is the brainchild of two residents who wanted to revive artisanal production. I encourage anyone and everyone to experience the full tour – taking in the rich aroma of the roasting room, covering the circuitous path around the grounds among coffee trees, tasting the fresh coffee cherries and, finally, tasting the finished product. To me, this is local tasting at its finest. Coffee, just like wine, is affected significantly by the earth in which it is grown, so all coffee has specific elements of the terroir in each cherry.
Feeling Fruity
Did you know that there are more than 100 types of bananas grown in Hawaii? And that’s just one type of fruit! While the Big Island is the biggest agricultural producer in the state, the history of its success is one of transplant fruit – almost everything grown here is an exotic immigrant, finding a happy home in the rich soil and nurturing weather. The diversity of things that can thrive in the climate of Hawaii is almost unreal: spiny jackfruit, rainbow papaya, dinosaur kale, turkey figs, lilikoi and countless others flourish here. To get a lesson in local produce, head down the Kona Coast to a tropical fruit test garden, where farmers are experimenting with growing ultra-exotics for big-name Hawaii chefs. The garden is part of the 12 Trees Project, a co-op that began with a list of 12 fruits the chefs wanted to cook with. Not sure whether or not the fruits would flower, farmers planted them and hoped for the best, starting with the tree tomato, poha, Rangpur lime to name a few. The best place to experience them all in one place is the Hilo Farmers Market, held twice a week on the lush eastern side of the island.
Coffee and fruit may have once been regarded as breakfast staples, but in these beautiful plants I see culinary experiences right up there with wine and cheese tasting.
